Essence: The Step That Makes Everything Else Work Better in My Routine

What an essence is, why it matters, and where it fits in a modern skincare routine

If I had to name one skincare step that quietly earned its place in my 2025 routine, it wouldn’t be the strongest active on my shelf.

It would be an essence.

For a long time, I thought essences were optional - nice, but skippable. And honestly? As a working mom, there are mornings and nights when I still skip it completely. But over the past year, I’ve noticed something: when I use an essence consistently and layer it correctly, everything else in my routine works better.

✔️My skin tolerates actives more easily.

✔️My glow lasts longer.

✔️My barrier feels calmer.

And when I leave it out for too long? I honestly see it.

What Is an Essence in Skincare?

An essence is a lightweight, water-based skincare step designed to hydrate, soften, and prep the skin so serums and treatments absorb more effectively.

An essence is not:

• a replacement for vitamin C or retinoids

• a heavy serum

• a toner (even though the texture can look similar)

• an exfoliant (most of the time)

Most essences focus on:

• hydration and humectants

• barrier support

• calming inflammation

• improving absorption of active ingredients

Think of essence as the connective tissue of your routine — it doesn’t steal the spotlight, but it makes the rest of the products perform better.

Why Use an Essence? (Even If You Don’t Have Time for a 10-Step Routine)

Essences earned a permanent place in my routine because they’re high-impact without being high-maintenance.

They:

• help retinoids feel smoother and less irritating

• improve how well serums absorb

• add bounce and glow without heaviness

• support the skin barrier when you’re using strong actives

Are essences mandatory every single day? No.

Do they noticeably improve results when used consistently? Absolutely.

Where Does Essence Go in Your Skincare Routine?

This is where skincare advice online gets oversimplified. You’ll often hear:

“Essence always goes before serum.”

That’s not wrong, but it’s incomplete.

Essence placement depends on the actives you’re using.

For clarity, I’m focusing on vitamin C (AM) and retinoids (PM), which are the two most common anchor ingredients and the ones most affected by layering order.

(You can read my full guides here: “Why Vitamin C Deserves a Spot in Your Morning Routine” and “Retinol, But Make It Make Sense)

Morning Routine: Essence + Vitamin C

1. Default order (most routines)

Cleanse → Essence → Vitamin C → Moisturizer → SPF

This works best when:

• your essence is watery and hydrating

• your vitamin C is a derivative or gentle formula (e.g. Goodal Green Tangerine Vitamin C)

• barrier support and comfort are priorities 

2. When vitamin C goes before essence

Cleanse → Vitamin C → Essence → Moisturizer → SPF

This can make sense if:

• you’re using a strong, low-pH L-ascorbic acid serum (e.g. the OG SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic)

• you prioritize potency over comfort

• your skin tolerates actives well

• your essence is thicker or milky

But remember! There’s no single “correct” answer, just intentional choices.

Night Routine: Essence Before Retinoids (Most of the Time)

For most people, the ideal order is:

Cleanse → Essence → Retinoid → Moisturizer

Light hydration before retinoids:

• improves tolerance

• reduces irritation

• supports long-term consistency

Advanced users may apply retinoids on completely bare skin for faster results, but because we’re focused on barrier-first, long-term anti-aging results, essence first is usually the smarter move to protect your skin and prevent irritation, inflammation, and barrier thinning.

Best Essences to Try (And Where They Fit Best)

Classic Hydrating Essences (Barrier + Glow)

These are true, everyday essences: gentle, ferment-forward, and easy to use consistently. And all can be layered before or after actives.

• SK-II Facial Treatment Essence - The original ferment essence, focused on hydration, glow, and long-term skin resilience.

• Missha Time Revolution First Treatment Essence - Often called an SK-II alternative, with similar ferment benefits at a lower price point.

• Then I Met You Giving Essence - A modern, everyday essence that’s calming, hydrating, and easy to use morning or night.

• Hanyul Red Rice Essence - Slightly more nourishing, with a focus on firmness and barrier support, especially nice at night.

Essences That Act More Like Treatments (Use With Intention)

These blur the line between hydration and treatment, so rotate them in thoughtfully.

• COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence (thicker, more occlusive, focused on hydration and barrier repair)

• Mixsoon Bean Essence (mild exfoliating & smoothing)

• Dr. Pepti Volume Master Essence (peptide-forward, plumping)

These are best on non-retinoid nights or when skin needs targeted support without adding another serum.

Why Essences Matter for Barrier Care and Anti-Aging

One of the biggest shifts in my skincare philosophy is viewing anti-aging as daily maintenance, not emergency repair (inspired heavily by K-beauty).

A healthy skin barrier means:

• lower transepidermal water loss (you’ll often see this abbreviated to TEWL)

• less chronic inflammation

• better elasticity

• more consistent tolerance of actives

Essences support the barrier quietly yet powerfully, allowing vitamin C, retinoids, moisturizers, and sunscreen to work more effectively over time.

Skin that’s supported simply ages more slowly.

The Bottom Line

Essences don’t have to be seen as “extra,” but rather as a strategic step for achieving long-term results.

You don’t have to use it perfectly or constantly, but when you understand what an essence is and where it fits, it becomes one of the most valuable steps in a modern, barrier-first skincare routine.

Want More Like This? Let’s Dew This Together

Subscribe to Dew the Most for skincare guides, decoded ingredients, and real talk about what actually works…and what doesn’t.