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Retinol, But Make It Make Sense

The Ultimate Guide to All the "Retinols" in Skincare


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TL;DR


Not all “retinols” are created equal. Between plant-based dupes and derm-grade prescriptions, it can feel like alphabet soup out there (retinol, retinal, retinoate… what?). This guide cuts through the noise: what each type does, who it’s best for, and how to actually use it without wrecking your barrier.

Spoiler: stronger ≠ better.



Why Retinol Is That Girl


Retinol is part of the retinoid family (all vitamin A derivatives) and one of the most well-researched skincare ingredients ever.


Here’s what it does:

  • Boosts cell turnover = smoother texture

  • Stimulates collagen = firmer, bouncier skin

  • Clears pores = fewer breakouts

  • Brightens = more glow, less dullness


It’s popular because it works. If you’re serious about long-term skin health, retinol (or one of its cousins) deserves a spot in your routine.



The Retinoid Lineup


Here’s the family tree, from gentlest to strongest.


🍼 Retinyl Esters

Look for: Retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate 

Vibe: Retinol on training wheels 

Good for: Ultra-sensitive skin, first-timers 

Worth it? Meh — gentle, slow results.

Try:


🌿 Bio-Retinol

Look for: Bakuchiol, Bidens Pilosa, moth bean, rambutan 

Vibe: Plant-based retinol alternatives 

Good for: Pregnant/breastfeeding, sensitive skin 

Worth it? Yes, especially for beginners.

Try:


✨ Retinol

Look for: Just “retinol” 

Vibe: The classic, proven option 

Good for: Normal to combo skin, mid-level users 

Worth it? 100%.

Try:


💥 Encapsulated Retinol

Look for: Encapsulated / time-release retinol 

Vibe: Same as retinol, but gentler delivery 

Good for: Sensitive or combo skin 

Worth it? Yes.

Try:


⚡ Retinal (Retinaldehyde)

Look for: Retinal, retinaldehyde 

Vibe: Retinol’s faster sibling 

Good for: Acne-prone, textured, or mature skin 

Worth it? Yes.

Try:


🧬 Retinal Liposome

Look for: Retinal liposome, encapsulated retinal 

Vibe: Retinal with smart delivery = less irritation 

Good for: Ready-to-level-up users 

Worth it? Absolutely.

Try:


💊 Granactive Retinoid (HPR)

Look for: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Granactive Retinoid 

Vibe: Fast results, gentler than retinol 

Good for: Results without redness 

Worth it? Yes.

Try:


🩺 Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid)

Look for: Retin-A, tretinoin, adapalene (Differin) 

Vibe: Prescription-level, derm-approved 

Good for: Severe acne, advanced aging concerns 

Worth it? 100% (with derm guidance).

Try:

  • Differin Adapalene Gel 0.1% (OTC)

  • [Retin-A Tretinoin Cream](Rx only)



So… Which One Do You Actually Need?

You Are…

Start With

New to retinol

Encapsulated retinol or bio-retinol

Sensitive AF

Bakuchiol or retinyl palmitate

Acne-prone

Retinal or adapalene

Over 30 / want glow ASAP

Retinal liposome or Granactive Retinoid

Dealing with spots & texture

Retinol or retinal

Pregnant / breastfeeding

Bio-retinol only (bakuchiol, etc.)

Totally over it?

See a derm for tretinoin


Dew This, Not That


Dew this: 

✅ Use at night only 

✅ Pair with SPF every morning (non-negotiable) 

✅ Sandwich with moisturizer if you’re sensitive 

✅ Start 2–3x/week, then build up 

✅ Use Vitamin C in the morning, retinol at night (don’t layer them) 


Not that: 

❌ Don’t apply on wet skin (extra irritation risk) 

❌ Don’t cocktail with strong acids unless you’re advanced 

❌ Don’t freak out if you purge — it’s temporary 

❌ Don’t double up on retinoids (stick to one per routine; more ≠ faster results)



Final Verdict

The strongest “retinol” isn’t always the best one for you. Success comes from consistency, not intensity. Start slow. Moisturize smart. Wear SPF every single day.

That’s how you dew the most. 


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